While still working on the bodice, I also started working on the petticoat. In the reference images, her skirt is very pouffy. Although I have a few petticoats, they are all full length and historical. For this, I had to make a shorter petticoat. I started by doing some research and then planning it out.
I wanted to keep the volume away from the waist, so I started by making a fitted band, about 6” wide. Then a gathered layer of cotton organdie (what I had at the time) and then a gathered layer of lace (I live for the aesthetic, I think undergarments can be so pretty).
I draped the fitted band on my dressform, adding seams where darts would be for a quick process. The front panel was cut on the fold and all the pieces sewn together.
Then I cut large rectangles out of the organdie and sewed them together into one long strip. The seams used the selvage so I didn’t have to finish them.
Then I gathered down the top edge of the organdie to match the measurement of the bottom edge of the waist band – not to the waist measurement, as the band is 6” and it’s closer to my hip measurement. It would’ve been easier to sew the lace ruffle on before gathering it down but at the time I wasn’t thinking.
Then I measured the length and gathered down the lace. I used a lot of it, though I can’t remember how much exactly. I sewed this on by machine to the organdie. I sewed it together by machine and then covered the seams in ribbon.
I sewed up the back seam, leaving an 8” gap at the back so I can get into it, and finished those edges by turning them inwards twice and sewing them down by hand. Then I sewed two pieces of ribbon together to create a channel, and slotted the top edge of the band into it, then topstitched it down by machine. I threaded ribbon through it using a bobby pin.
After looking at it, I thought the petticoat could have more volume. So I got some organza and made two extra layers. Each layers was made of two different sized layers of organza, gathered down. The bottom layer was finished with satin ribbon and then bias tape after I ran out of ribbon. I overlocked the rest of the organza.
The two layers were basted together and then sewed to the seam between the waist band and the organdie layer of the petticoat. I was much pleased as it added a fair bit of volume.
For the skirt! I picked up the satin and draped it on the my dressform to try and figure it out. I wanted to fit a lot of fabric into the bodice measurement.
I did two tests, one gathered and one cartridge pleated. I went with cartridge pleating in the end, since it looked nicer and allowed more volume. I marked the top edge of the fabric every 1/4”, marking two rows. I used this nifty washi tape my sister had that had the right spacing between stripes.
Then I used two large needles and extra strong thread and sewed the pleats, pulling the threads through and arranging the pleats as I went. I then tied the threads down.
For some reason, I decided to do the usual method of sewing each pleat down to a band, so I used a small ribbon.
I then put this on my dressform to see, but because of the weight of the satin it was hard to picture.
I did an extra step here that turned out useless but I’ll talk about it anyway. From what I’d read about cartridge pleating, they were often secured to a tape/ribbon. I was worried about the gathering threads breaking and so thought it would be useful to sew it to a bit of ribbon for stability, so I handsewed every pleat, individually, to the ribbon. However the waistline was SO bulky that I ended up shoving this through my machine and cutting off as much off the top as possible, including the bulky selvage and the blue ribbon above.
I sewed the skirt to the bodice by matching the CB and then sewing by machine with a 1/2” seam allowance. I pulled the bodice lining down and sewed it over the seam, to cover it, after ironing (I also trimmed back the seam a lot as it was super bulky, so the ribbon got trimmed away in the end anyway). I inserted an invisible zipper at the back, sewing it to the satin and then sewing the lining over it by hand. I left however a couple of inches free from the satin, where I made some pockets (see wings below).
I stared at it on my dressform for a few days, wondering how I was going to do the cut away bit. I really don’t like showing my legs, so I measured down to my knees and marked it on the fabric as the shortest point (plus seam allowance). And then I just… winged it. I sat on the floor in front of it and cut away the fabric in an arching motion. I tried laying it flat and matched the two sides as best as I could.
I finished the hem with horsehair braid. I sewed it to the right side of the hem with a 1/2” seam allowance, then turned it to the wrong side and used a herringbone stitch to sew it down. Everything was ironed and the dress was finished!
The design, however, has a lot of accessories.
For the necklace, I used the same star design as for the staff and cut two out of foam and two out of worbla.
I glued the pieces together into two pairs.
Then I skewed them for that overlayered look and glued them to each other. Then I used my awl to poke a hole through the top.
I primed with mod podge, painted them with gold acrylic paint, and primed again. I cut a length of the red ribbon (my neck measurement plus for the bow), finished the edges by running them through a flame and sewed on the star with some red thread.
For the shoes, I bought red flats from New Look. They came with little bows, which I removed, but they left ugly stitch holes behind.
I made two small stars out of foam, primed painted and sealed the same methods as in the necklace, and then super glued them onto the shoes.
I then tried them on and pinned two lengths of ribbons on each side, and tangled them up my legs. Once I saw how much I needed, I cut the four lengths out and sealed the edges by burning them. Then I sewed them on to the shoes by hand.
Disclaimer: this did not work. The ribbons kept falling down during the day. In the morning, my panic ridden solution was to safety pin the ribbons to my tights at several different points and they sort of stayed up (like, ten pins on each leg). I would like to find a better solution but I haven’t yet.
The garter is a long piece of satin. I turned the edges inwards twice and sewed them down, then sewed two rows of gathering stitches down the middle. I gathered it down and then hand sewed red ribbon over the top, having sealed the cut ribbon edges with a flame. It then ties to hold and it held up pretty well!
The headband is just a length of ribbon that I ran across the wig and then made a bow at the side. I secured it with a couple of bobby pins. (I used I think 10 m of red satin ribbon for this costume).
The wings were… special. I was determined to make wings but unsure about how to secure them, as the dress wasn’t strapless. So when sewing the dress, I left a couple of inches free from the zipper. I sewed two small rectangular pockets from the lining fabric, zig zag stitching to finished the raw edges. Then I inserted one pocket on each side of the CB, sliding inbetween the lining and the satin. They were secured at CB by hand, sewing to the satin seam allowance and leaving them open. This was hopefully where the wings would attach to the dress.
For the wings, I sketched out a pattern and cut it out. Then I (mostly my boyfriend tbh) shaped wire (originally wire hangers) into the shape, using fabric tape to secure where seconds had to overlap and be linked. Then I cut the shapes out of 4 oz batting and sewed it to the wire by hand with strong thread. I bought a bunch of different types of feathers from ebay and hot glued them on. Then I fiddled with attaching magnets (also from ebay), attaching some to the wings and some to the dress. I found I didn’t have enough magnets to make it work, so I only wore the wings for a couple of seconds for photos as I only made them a couple of days before the convention and didn’t have time to order more magnets. However in the future, I will order more magnets and add them, as I think that will safely work. It’s a good easy solution.
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I posted a photo of the finished wings yesterday and here’s how I made them! This was my first time making wings, so I’m by no means an expert but this worked for me and was fairly easy to follow. Materials: paper for a pattern, wire, batting/wadding, hot glue gun and glue, and feathers. 1. Draft a pattern. I estimated measurements, drew it out, then used a french curve to smooth out curves. 2. I used the pattern and cut two wings out of the batting. 3. Using the pattern and two pliers, I (though tbh it was mostly my boyfriend) shaped the wire to match the pattern. I used fabric tape (zinc tape) to tape together the edges where they overlapped. 4. I handsewed the wire to the batting with extra strong thread. 5. I used the hot glue to add the feathers. 6. And it was done! The whole process of attaching these to the dress was hella messy so I’ll go over it when I make a blog post. Hopefully this is helpful to someone! — #cosplay #cosplayer #wings #props #craft #crafting #sakura #cardcaptorsakura #cardcaptorsakuracosplay #sakuracosplay #anime #manga #clamp #tutorial #kinda #tips
And that was it! I will have some photos up soon, as I also worked on the wig to match.
Thanks for reading!